We arrived in the town of Kochkor around lunch time on Saturday, just missing out on seeing the animal market which runs throughout the morning. However, there was still plenty of live stock around town to keep us entertained.
Our plan was to do a three day horse trek to Lake Song-Kol. We headed straight for CBT (Community Based Tourism) to get details of the tour the run and a quote. Unfortunately, they were quite expensive compared to the others. Jailoo, another tour operator, was the cheapest but they didn't speak English. We went instead with Shepherd's Life, which had good reviews and a reasonable price. Three days with a guide, breakfast, dinner and transport cost us 13,200 som - roughly $330 AUS for two people. We were looking forwarded to not having to worry about the logistics for the next few days and just enjoying the ride. Literally.
Day One - Jumgal Village to Kilemche yurt stay.
We were picked up from our home-stay, Sharem 14, where we had pitched our tents for 200 som each the previous afternoon.
We started the horse trek from a little village called Jumgal. It was an hour drive from Kochkor and 15 minutes into the journey I was busting for the loo. Public toilets in Kyrgyzstan are few and far between, but I tried my luck, 'are we going past a toilet?' I was given a blank stare and asked, 'you need toilet?'
'Yes', I replied.
The car instantly pulled onto the gravel and I stared out the window at a few stunted bushes. I guess this is the Kyrgyzstan equivalent of a public toilet and I wasn't fussed.
Before long we were saddling up for our journey at Shepherd's Life.
Our guide, Jomart spoke good English and was only 17 years old. He told us he had started riding when he was four. Pretty common for the Kyrgyzs.
We trekked through some beautiful countryside, had a lunch break and practiced our cantering before reaching our first yurt stay at Kilemche.
Running free!
View of the valley below from Kilemche yurt stay.
Claire and Jomart enjoying a tea break in the yurt with home made bread dipped into various types of jam and butter.
We had a little nap in our new home and when we woke up many other tourists had arrived. A couple from France, a couple from Belgium and a group of three friends from Austria. Most travellers so far have been from Europe. We stayed in the same yurt as the French couple and our guide Jomart who slept-talked so loudly he woke us up both nights. Classic.
Day Two - Kilemche yurt stay to Batai-Aral yurt village.
Our bums and thighs were a little tender from the previous day, but we were excited to get back on our horses despite this. We headed up over the pass and the view from the top was amazing. It was a beautiful clear day giving us fine views of Lake Song-Kol.
Claire and Jomart heading up to the pass.
View of Lake Song-Kol from the top of the pass.
After a long tea break in a yurt closer to the lake we rode with lake views for two hours before coming to Batai-Aral a yurt camp.
Sunset over the yurt camp.
Day Three - Batai-Aral yurt village to Kochkor
Jomart took the horses back to Jumgal this morning while I napped in the yurt and Claire played with a local dog. After sleeping in the tent for two weeks the beds felt so soft! I took advantage of thid and slept a lot of the morning while waiting for our transport to arrive.
The drive back to Kochkor was steep, rocky and windy, to which this picture will attest. It was a nice car, but unfortunately had no air con, and the driver had a CD of patriotic-sounding songs in Kyrgyz on repeat for the whole trip. The CD kept skipping every time we went over a bump, and one of the songs got stuck in Claire's head, so she kept serenading my with it all afternoon. Thanks, driver!
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