Ahhhh... the Fan Mountains... possibly my most anticipated destination for all Central Asia. I mean, just look at it!
Day One
Getting there wasn't as easy as I'd anticipated. We had suspected there would be a lot of traffic going in and out given its popularity, but due to the condition of the road and its remoteness there isn't a lot of local traffic. We tried our luck at hitch hiking and after 10 minutes a truck driver gave us a lift to a small village about 8km up the road.
By this time it was late in the day, and not much traffic was coming through, so we decided to find somewhere to pitch for the night. We walked to the edge of town hoping to find some flat ground next to the river. No such luck. The land rises quucly after the last house in town, leaving no flat, empty space on which to camp. We walked back into town hoping to find a friendly local who would let us pitch in their garden. Almost straight away we came across a bunch of women sitting opposite a nice flat garden with lots of trees providing much-sought shade. We gestured to the green spot and asked 'palatka?' Meaning 'tent'? The owner seemed a bit hesitant and after some talk between the women we were instructed to follow the children. They led us down to the river to a nice vacant piece of land where we could spend the night. The children thought we were quite the novelty and played around the tent until it got dark.
Day Two
To ensure we got a ride the remaining 20km to the Alplager, we got up early and stationed ourselves next to the road, waiting for cars. After half an hour or so, a car eventually came along. It had three male passengers who were happy for us to jump on board. They got out at a village about 6km short of the Alplager, so we paid the driver 60 som to take us the rest of the way.
The Alplager is home to some stone buildings (one included a kitchen which could do meals for a couple of dollars) and a few scattered tents. Instead of spending the night here with the other hikers we decided to head straight to Lake Alaudin (1st and 2nd photos) and camp on the lake. It's only about a 40 minute walk to the lake, but factor in more time if you would like to stop and admire the many beautiful lakes on the way up.
Day Three
Today we were heading over the 3860m Alaudin Pass to get to the Kulikalon bowl. Thankfully it wasn't a long distance, but the pass was steep and it took us about three hours to get to the top from Alaudin Lake.
From here it was a long, knee-jarring descent to Lake Dushakha, which sits at the base of the 5489m Mount Chimtarga, where we pitched our tent for a chilly nights sleep.
Day Four
Kulikalon bowl is filled with many spectacular little lakes, the biggest being Lake Kulikalon.
It was a very short day, so we took our time to find the best camp spot we could. After walking in circles around some beautiful lakes we settled for this one. Again, Mt Chimtarga in the background.
Day Five
I woke up feeling unwell, after having had an uneasy sleep with stomach pains all night. Claire was also a bit off colour, but despite this we decided to tackle the pass, to get back to civilisation as soon as possible in case we got really sick.
After 30 minutes of walking I felt like vomiting all over myself. Just when I thought I couldn't go on any further a man with a donkey rode past. I think he could see the pain we were in. He stopped and looked at me, then gestured to my pack and pointed to the donkey. 'Are you sure?' I said, even though he didn't speak English. He took my pack and saddled it on the donkey. This was too good to be true! There had to be a catch. 'Skolka stoit?' I asked, meaning 'How much?' He waved his hand to indicate no charge.
Ok, usually I'm a bit of a puritan and have kinda judged hikers who hired porters or animals to carry their gear (unless you're over 50 years old, then you've totally earned it). But in this case I was willing to make an exception. I was sure I was going to vomit before reaching the pass and the less gear I carried the more chance I had of making it to the top. So we saddled up the donkey with both packs and continued to walk and take in the amazing views.
I'm ashamed to say that the donkey, carrying in excess of 30kgs, kicked my arse up that hill. Well not exactly a hill, but a 3630m pass.
It was all down hill from here. The donkey owner took an alternative route about half way down but before we parted ways we made a picnic lunch to say thank you.
We made it back to the Alplager by 1pm and waited near the road for a car to arrive and hopefully take us back to Sarvoda. We knew that cars were very irregular, so we had enough food to camp the night and walk the 25km out the next day if we had to.
After waiting for an hour a ute turned up with some passengers in the back. We thought they would most likely be staying the night, but after chatting to the driver we learned he was just dropping people off. So we got down to the business of negotiating. At first he asked for 200 somoni. Ouch! AUS $44 for a 25km ride. I think not. We offered 100 somoni and eventually agreed on 130 somoni (AUS $28.50). Yeh, it's expensive but it's a one hour drive and the road is really bad - the worst I've been on in Tajikistan, actually, but also incredibly beautiful and fun.
Exhausted and elated from such a great week in the Fan's, we crashed at the Guesthouse in Sarvoda, and decided to follow it up with a rest day, with lots of fresh veggies and relaxing.
By this time it was late in the day, and not much traffic was coming through, so we decided to find somewhere to pitch for the night. We walked to the edge of town hoping to find some flat ground next to the river. No such luck. The land rises quucly after the last house in town, leaving no flat, empty space on which to camp. We walked back into town hoping to find a friendly local who would let us pitch in their garden. Almost straight away we came across a bunch of women sitting opposite a nice flat garden with lots of trees providing much-sought shade. We gestured to the green spot and asked 'palatka?' Meaning 'tent'? The owner seemed a bit hesitant and after some talk between the women we were instructed to follow the children. They led us down to the river to a nice vacant piece of land where we could spend the night. The children thought we were quite the novelty and played around the tent until it got dark.
Day Two
To ensure we got a ride the remaining 20km to the Alplager, we got up early and stationed ourselves next to the road, waiting for cars. After half an hour or so, a car eventually came along. It had three male passengers who were happy for us to jump on board. They got out at a village about 6km short of the Alplager, so we paid the driver 60 som to take us the rest of the way.
The Alplager is home to some stone buildings (one included a kitchen which could do meals for a couple of dollars) and a few scattered tents. Instead of spending the night here with the other hikers we decided to head straight to Lake Alaudin (1st and 2nd photos) and camp on the lake. It's only about a 40 minute walk to the lake, but factor in more time if you would like to stop and admire the many beautiful lakes on the way up.
Our tent on the lake front of Alaudin.
Day Three
Morning views of Alaudin Lake.
Today we were heading over the 3860m Alaudin Pass to get to the Kulikalon bowl. Thankfully it wasn't a long distance, but the pass was steep and it took us about three hours to get to the top from Alaudin Lake.
Views of Lake Alaudin heading to the pass.
View of Kulikalon bowl from Alaudin Pass.
Lake Dushakha with Mt Chimtarga in the background.
Day Four
Kulikalon bowl is filled with many spectacular little lakes, the biggest being Lake Kulikalon.
Lake Kulikalon, where we sat and enjoyed our lunch.
Tomato and cucumber in stale bread (again).
It was a very short day, so we took our time to find the best camp spot we could. After walking in circles around some beautiful lakes we settled for this one. Again, Mt Chimtarga in the background.
Not long after we pitched, a local man came over and chatted with us, wanting to know where we were from and where we were going. It's amazing how much communication is possible even without speaking the same language.
Day Five
Morning view from our tent.
After 30 minutes of walking I felt like vomiting all over myself. Just when I thought I couldn't go on any further a man with a donkey rode past. I think he could see the pain we were in. He stopped and looked at me, then gestured to my pack and pointed to the donkey. 'Are you sure?' I said, even though he didn't speak English. He took my pack and saddled it on the donkey. This was too good to be true! There had to be a catch. 'Skolka stoit?' I asked, meaning 'How much?' He waved his hand to indicate no charge.
Ok, usually I'm a bit of a puritan and have kinda judged hikers who hired porters or animals to carry their gear (unless you're over 50 years old, then you've totally earned it). But in this case I was willing to make an exception. I was sure I was going to vomit before reaching the pass and the less gear I carried the more chance I had of making it to the top. So we saddled up the donkey with both packs and continued to walk and take in the amazing views.
Laudon Pass.
The best donkey in the world on the pass.
The donkey owner on top of Laudon Pass.
It was all down hill from here. The donkey owner took an alternative route about half way down but before we parted ways we made a picnic lunch to say thank you.
Claire and donkey owner enjoying some chai and naan (tea and bread) with a beautiful view.
We made it back to the Alplager by 1pm and waited near the road for a car to arrive and hopefully take us back to Sarvoda. We knew that cars were very irregular, so we had enough food to camp the night and walk the 25km out the next day if we had to.
After waiting for an hour a ute turned up with some passengers in the back. We thought they would most likely be staying the night, but after chatting to the driver we learned he was just dropping people off. So we got down to the business of negotiating. At first he asked for 200 somoni. Ouch! AUS $44 for a 25km ride. I think not. We offered 100 somoni and eventually agreed on 130 somoni (AUS $28.50). Yeh, it's expensive but it's a one hour drive and the road is really bad - the worst I've been on in Tajikistan, actually, but also incredibly beautiful and fun.
Exhausted and elated from such a great week in the Fan's, we crashed at the Guesthouse in Sarvoda, and decided to follow it up with a rest day, with lots of fresh veggies and relaxing.
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