Pamir Highway: Part Two

View of the Wakhan Valley in Afghanistan

Day Four - Alichur to Langar

Giant hole in the road from Alichur to Langar.

This year Tajikistan has had an unusually high amount of rain, resulting in land slides, erosion and the closure of the road between Khorog and Murgab. Driving in heavy rain can be hazardous but thankfully the weather was clear for us.

After much swerving and avoiding of crevices, we eventually came to the serene Lake Bulunkul. There was no one else was there so we took the opportunity to soak in the beautiful scene and listen to the birds. The lake was very still and reflected the white clouds and blue sky like a mirror.

Although I wouldn't recommend camping here as the place is swarming with mosquiotes, hence why I'm wearing my puffy jacket.

We backtracked to the highway and kept our eyes open for cairns signalling the start of the walk up 'Panorama Ridge'. This is a steep, two hour ascent with mountain views of China, Afghanistan, Pakistan and, of course, Tajikistan.

The hike was not easy as we were up pretty high (maybe around 5,000m) so I was severely short of breath before the walk even got steep. Towards the top, I had to stop every ten metres just to slow my heart rate down. Any secret fantasies I had of one day being a mountaineer were severely dashed along with my ego. I was sorely tempted to turn around on multiple occasions but my pride wouldn't let me. My perseverance eventually paid off when, after two hours of hard climbing, I reached the top and was rewarded with stunning views.

Kevin sitting by a cairn enjoying the panorama.

The descent was significantly faster than the ascent, and after spending some time at the top we were back in the car within 20 minutes.

Before long we called a stop again so we could take photos of the stunning Wakhan Valley. 

The Wakhan River provides a natural border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan. It's exciting to be so close to a country that's so inaccessible at the moment. It's also incredibly beautiful. Not only is Afghanistan visible, but the snow-capped Hindu Kush mountain range in Pakistan also be seen beyond the Afghan mountains, as in the above photo.

These views were my favourite section of our journey and I had to stop myself from constantly asking Danier to keep pulling over for photos.

After driving across bare and rocky landscape all day it was a startling change to drive into the very green town of Langar.

The town is really beautiful and you will be tempted to stay more than one night. Unfortunately, the locals are very used to tourists and they will make every effort to relieve you of your money. We had a somewhat bad experience with Nigina Homestay and soon learned we were not the only ones. Another traveller had found the host stealing money from their luggage, and others commented that they just generally felt unwelcome.

However not everyone is looking to take your money and some locals just want to have their photo taken. Like these lovely ladies.

Day Five - Langar to Yumchun Fort

Before leaving town we took a short walk to the cemetery. It's on the side of a hill and you can keep walking up to a bunch of petroglyphs in the caves above. Apparently it is difficult to tell the originals from the more recent graffiti left by vandals.

Our first stop was at a Buddhist stupa (pyramid looking thing) in Vrang. Only a short walk from the road, it was well worth the side trip.

After admiring the view of town and taking lots of photos we headed back to the car. Only to find it less one tyre and Danier with spanner in hand.

'No problem, no problem', he reassured us.

Thirty minutes later the tyre was back on and we were back on the road.

There are many ruins and old forts along the Pamir Highway but Yamchun Fort is supposed to be the most scenic and, I must admit, I was pretty impressed.

To get there it's 6km of very steep switchbacks all the way up. But once you get to the top the lookout is remarkable.

If you keep driving past the fort you reach Bibi Fatima Hot Springs. This is the best hot springs I've ever been to. Even though it's enclosed it still feels really wild and natural. There are several rooms to bathe in (men and women separate, and private or public) but the quality of the spring you get is just a matter of luck. The room I went to was a public one and was built into the side of a waterfall. The hot water cascades down the side of a rocky mossy wall into the pool below where there were many naked women. Women come here to boost their fertility, maybe because many of the calcite rocks in the hot springs look like parts of the female anatomy. I tried to take a photo but because of all the steam and naked people it was rather difficult.

We stayed the night at Charshanbe homestay, the main room of which was set up in typical Pamiri style. It had a lot of character and many carpets on the floors and walls.

Day Six - Yamchun Fort to Khaakha Fort.

We had planned to spend the following night in the town of Ishkashim, but had been recommended a cool homestay that prior to Ishkashim, right next to the historic Khaakha Fort.

We had been told the place was called Intizor, but we didn't quite know what to expect. As we pulled up at the entrance we were a little wary, as it looked a little old and run down. But looks can be deceiving, as it turned out to be the best homestay of the whole trip.

We were greeted by our crazy host, a middle aged man and his young family. Soon after we arrived the son changed into traditional Afghan dress...

And then our host insisted we dress up! How could we refuse...

Kevin, me and Claire.

Our host was so animated and full of life, he loved shaking our hands and slapping us on the back. His poor wife was often shaking her head at his antics and secretly smiling once he turned his back.

Our host family

They were so hospitable they insisted on killing a goat in our honour. I felt bad that the family would make such a sacrifice for us until I witnessed the killing of the goat. Then I felt bad for the goat.

Host after slaughtering the goat. With a trail of blood on the ground.

After our delicious dinner the party really started. As soon as it got dark, out came the boom box and the disco lights. I don't know where they got this equipment from but it felt like we were at a blue light disco from the 90's instead of in the remote Pamirs. Our host hit the dance floor showing us some Afghan dance moves. He tried in vain to get us up dancing too, but we were too stuffed full of goat to contemplate movement.

Day seven - Khaakha Fort to Khorog.

Sadly today was our last day on the Pamir trip. We woke to the sound of rain on our tents. It wasn't much of a sight seeing day as it was cold and wet, so we drove directly to Khorog which was relatively short journey.

Khorog is the gateway to the Pamirs, as most tourists start from here and head east, instead of what we did. There is an organisation in town called PECTA, which has a range of resources to help those heading out to the Pamir.

Danier took us to the Pamir Lodge where there were more cyclists than the Tour de France. It is a busy place full of lots of adventurous types. Lots of tents on the lawn and people sleeping on the balcony. It was a bit hectic for Kevin so he decided to stay somewhere a bit quieter, and closer to town and food.

This was the official end of our journey together. It was a sad goodbye, especially to our driver Danier who was fantastic.